Sunday, 26 Nov 2023, 7 AM
On a rustic chair that seems like it is from another era, I sit with my jacket as the breeze nudges the wind chimes, as if to greet me this morning.
I breathe in not just the nature around me, but the solitude, the calmness and the stories of all those who were here before me.
Not in Bengaluru have I ever managed to sit up this early on a Sunday morning to experience the calmness. If at all, I must have been trying to hear closely and trying to understand the lyrics of the song blaring from the garbage collecting vehicle (precisely at 6:50 AM).
The place is nestled in Sakleshpur—Halemane ( Kannada; hale=old, mane=home)—Dev's home. Four of us landed here last afternoon, weary tourists at the entrance, all silently weighing in on the choice they had made.
Though rustic, welcoming and beautiful in a strange sort of way, it just felt too disconnected from civilisation—until of course, Dev stepped out to greet us along with Naveen, who helps Dev at Halemane.
Suddenly, we all were smiling. "We thought we were about to kill you both," said the wives, almost in unison. "Wait till you have the food", said one.
What kept coming to my mind was a scene from a Malayalam movie where a woman and her partner smash the heads of the visitors in their homestay and not a soul comes to know about it. Of course, I didn't remember what happened later or even if I dared to complete watching that movie, but we had all stepped in by then, not before witnessing the grandeur of the entrance and the parts of a bygone era that the owner had tried to preserve.
Wow! What a beauty! Two rooms (I discovered the third one sometime back) with an old world charm. A quadrangle with no roof, vessels, tribal figurines, sketches, bulb holders and what not! Every nook feels like a work of art.
We climbed the stairs to reach the first floor where a table was laid out for us. The food came in slowly -- thanks to Naveen. One after the other-- kadala, bhindi, puri, rajma, green chicken curry, katla fish fry, pulav, white rice, dal, pickle, curd-- the most sumptuous meal I had in a while. Dev personally served us the delicacies he had prepared.
After filling our tummies, sleep crawled towards us. A quick nap later, we were ready to go for a walk on his estate. A waterfall visit was also scheduled. Little did I know that past the coffee, cardamom and pepper plantations, there lay a stretch of fields with leeches thirsting our blood.
The guide told us to remove our chappals and walk. I gave him a look. Was he serious? I realised he was when all others removed their chappals and started walking past the sloppy field. A little less than five foot away, I lost my toe ring. I immediately lifted up my other foot to check. Luckily the lone ring glistened. Was it its tears at having lost its partner, I didn't know. I cleaned it and placed it quietly in my pocket.
A little while later, I was almost knee deep in mud, water and I wonder what all! The creek had arrived. "Enjoy," said the guide. I was holding on to dear life, wondering what life form would snuff out my life, after encountering leeches for the first time in my life. I silently wondered if Odomos helped my foot as one was yet to get to me.
Soon enough, there was one. The guide plucked it off as I called out to him. Blood started oozing but hey, there was cool water, freshly calming my stressed nerves. Then, said the guide, you can continue walking ahead. I looked ahead and all I could see was water. "Do you mean we have to walk through this?" "Yes, ma'am. 2 feet water, about 20 feet distance."
I prayed to all the Maths terms to forgive me for never understanding them as we trudged forth-- the water now almost up to our waist. The tallest among us took charge of our phones. Thank God I left my jacket at Halemane. If I reach back, I will tuck myself into it after a warm bath.
Dreams were suddenly shattered when a cow crossed the stream as if I had just crossed a lane leading to my house.
Surprised, we decided to give it one more shot. Meanwhile, my husband seemed to have gone blank. His friend held his hand as he led him forward — him wearing two caps (his and mine) and holding on to his shorts and to dear life! It's indeed a sight I am going to remember for a long time.
And soon there was a waterfall where the guys decided to cool their heads. While the guide made a walking stick for me with one of the branches, I stood holding the phones.
After what seemed like eternity, we were near Halemane. Leeches had attacked various parts of our bodies and we stood cleaning the mess we had become. Salt and Savlon joined our mission to evict leeches.
I immediately rushed to take a bath. Even before they could explain how the heater worked, I had poured cold water on my head, scared of all the creatures that may have crept up my head while they were enjoying a leisurely evening swing on the branches of all the different trees we crossed a while back. I screamed. Just above my calf, there it was-- gently sucking on to my apparently delicious blood (that even mosquitoes find hard to give up). Salt in a little plate followed after my scream reverberated in the room.
With the next cup of water, the leech said goodbye and dropped off, but not before leaving a gentle stream of blood for me to check if it indeed was red.
The Bangalore salts were washed away from my hair and the texture I usually get after shampoo, mask, conditioner, etc., was granted after just a little shampoo wash.
I stepped out revived but often kept looking at the floor. What if a stray leech got hold of some part of my foot, yet again?
Tea and piping hot parippu vada awaited us. After that, they suggested a walk. While I wanted to curl up with a book from the bookshelf there, they did convince me to get a view from above the place. I followed. A beautiful sunset had occurred by then, with the vestiges creating a postcard-perfect view for us.
We walked back. Dev and Naveen awaited our arrival. There was another one waiting for us—Mishti—so friendly and calm that my husband actually didn't mind that she was right next to us.
Soon, dishes followed—chilli chicken, chicken lollipops, molaggu bhajjis, sausages, and a dish I never tasted before— a huge omelette looking like pizza with chicken stuffing. I wondered how each dish exuded an extraordinary taste. I realised that the secret ingredients are love and passion for all that you do! Flavourful finger-licking amazing biryani with brinjal sabji, neer dosa, chutney followed.
After more than what we could stuff our stomachs with, we quickly gobbled some fennel seeds as a reward in advance for our stomachs to do their job, albeit over time.
We stepped out of the place, to enjoy our time under the stars. Just as I looked above, I observed a shooting star! I immediately remembered the "tussi na jao" guy from Kuch Kuch Hota Hai, who kept looking up and seemed to do some calculations almost all the time! Delighted, we spent some more time there before we decided to call it a night.
Monday, 27 November 2023, 11 PM
While it's time to go to bed in the hope of waking up fresh to seize another day, the fresh set of memories made at Halemane Homestay come alive, yet again.
Of course, I have checked my living area more than twice for any traces of any crawling object that may have accompanied us from our homestay.
'Anniversary tourists' WhatsApp group has more than a hundred images for us to look back at through the week, months and years from now. I hope to transfer the images to a safer destination (hopefully, soon!).
Thanks, Dev for the lessons in hospitality, warmth and the parting gift of bananas. Hope to see you soon!
P.S. The next time, I'll go prepared (no toe rings, for sure).
Wow, a simple memorable adventure
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